USA

SUMMERSVILLE LAKE

by Bernard Exley

Summersville Lake (located near West Virginia capital Charleston) is probably the number one destination for DWS in the USA. Although other venues exist, none of them offer the quantity that can be found here. 

DWS is currently banned on the lake so this information serves as ‘interest only’ until the matter can be resolved.

The lake is a popular summer destination for camping and boating. It was formed by the damming of the Gauley River and when full makes an excellent venue for DWS. From September onwards, normally the first weekend after the American ‘Labor Day’ holiday, large volumes of water are released to create spectacular rafting below the dam. This obviously affects the water depth so people should aim to visit before September.

The climbing ranges in angles from vertical to overhanging on smooth sandstone rock with plenty to go at including some now classic lines. Additionally there are a number of opportunities for new routing. The locals also indulge in cliff jumping which is a popular activity but also the most common cause of injury and additionally now banned. The water temperature is very warm in the summer months so no need for wetsuits. 

BOATS

A boat is essential for getting around the lake although expensive. A pontoon is probably the best hire-option – they are generally very stable and come with ladders, a canopy, plenty of storage and seating. There are several places to hire boats, some require you to have a tow bar in order to collect and launch. The best option is to use the hire boats that launch from the side of the lake.

GUIDES

There is no guide to DWS available but there is info available on all the traditional and bolted climbs of the areas in the ‘New River Gorge and Summersville Lake climbing guide’ by Steve Cater.

ACCOMMODATION

There is a good campsite by the lake which is set in the woods with plenty of space and reasonably priced.

DIRECTIONS

You can fly directly to the Summersville airstrip by the lake with a light aircraft but this is expensive. Flying to Charleston and hiring a car is more reasonable or just do the long drive from one of the international city airports. Also a car is essential for getting around the area so best hire one from the airport.

WHEN TO GO INFO 

The water levels begin to rise in March but soloing is not normally undertaken until the summer months of June/July/August but not in September.

THE CLIMBING BAN

There still lies some confusion as to the legality of soloing on the lake. At present there is a ban on cliff-jumping but not roped rock climbing. This rule was enforced in May 2007 and the lake is now patrolled with hefty fines being handed out to those breaking the rules. It appears that DWS has been unfairly lumped into the category of ‘Cliff jumping’ and it should be noted that no injuries from cliff-jumping have been at Summerville Lake, as the ban is more area wide. So until any further information becomes available then DWS is not advised.

For further information please visit the New River Climbing site.

And the official press release can be found here.

MAP

View Larger Map